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Odin Makes: The Tesseract from the Avengers Movies

(intro song) (techno music)
(posts popping) Hello I’m Odin and today I’m gonna make another requested prop. (air whooshing) It’s the tesseract. From darn near all the Marvel movies. The tesseract is a cube about
four inches on each side and this baseball display
case is nearly perfect. After fumbling to get it
open, I measure the inside and it’s 3.8 inches wide, or 97 millimeters for all of you civilized people in the world. But the numbers don’t really matter because I can lock the calipers and keep that size for later. What I wanna do is cover
the inside of the cube with something. What I wanna line it with is a product called illusion film. As far as I know, TAP Plastics
is the only that has it and this stuff has been
around for a while. I like the kind of an
odd 3D effect it gives and the fact that it’s translucent. It comes in a variety of
colors, including clear and I think this got used a lot on The Original Series Star Trek set. (plastic film shuffling) I can use the calipers to mark the size of the inside of the cube and then cut that out of a strip of film. Then I mark it again by
lightly pressing the points and this time I can
lightly score the film, which means to make more of a scratch on the top of the film, not
cutting all the way through it. And if I carefully bend
it along the scratch, it makes a nice right angle bend. I make a second set of marks, add another scratch, bend it as well. And make a third of marks,
and this time I cut the film. And now I have a piece
of film that fits inside of one half of the cube. Now, I did do this measurement by hand so if one side’s a little long I can just trim it back to fit. Because what I want is as perfect of a fit as I can get. Too big and the film
will buckle on the inside and too short, there will
be gaps in the corners. I start a second strip for the other side. The hard thing is
remembering to do a light cut to make these scores, and not just cut all the
way through the plastic. (techno music) Like that, cause that’s not
what I wanted to have happen. Might have to cut a new– Yeah, I’m gonna wanna cut a new one, damn. So I cut out another strip. And I get the folds right this time. I place the film in each half
of the cube and test the fit. There’s no way to glue
it in that I’m aware of that won’t show, I was
trying to experiment with that a little bit. Like tape shows when it’s taped on here and glue shows when you
put drops of glue on it. So I’m pretty sure I
have to cut some plastic to put on the inside to
hold things together. But I’m gonna need a piece of plastic on the inside anyway to hold
the light in the center. But before I place the light inside, let me tell you about
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are only good for 30 days. I want my light to be in
the center of the cube, like it is in the movie. I’ll make a plastic holder for it using some acrylic plastic. I think this stuff is
one-sixteenth of an inch thick. And it’s acrylic or plexiglass or lucite, it’s got a lot of different names. I can cut it on a saw, but it’s easy enough to cut it a few times using a ruler and a knife and then snap it the rest of the way. After making both pieces,
I get worried that they’re not gonna be thick enough to catch the illusion film and hold
it in the corner of the cube. So I cut another set from
some eighth inch thick stuff. Then I can cut this the same way but it takes more passes
with a razor knife. So the thicker ones will probably hold the film
better than the thinner ones. Only a little bit harder to cut. And, the protective film comes off. I need a little piece
to go in-between them as a place to attach the lights. I’ll measure it again and
cut down a thin strip. Of course they sell the proper
tool to cut acrylic with, I’m just forcing it with a razor knife. But you can actually get a proper scribe where you do this and it
works a bit faster and easier. I don’t have one. Clothespins will hold the acrylic in place and then I can glue the center piece. I’m gonna used some
Weld-On 4 plastic cements. Now be careful when applying glue, because a single drop
can ruin the 3D effect on the illusion film. So this here, what you
can kind of see probably, that’s a single drop of glue. And that’s why I can’t glue it inside cause it ruins the illusion film effect. I’ll just move that piece
to the bottom next to the sports cube’s label. So when you’re holding
it you won’t see it. So to light up the inside of the cube I’m gonna go ahead and use some
cheap little $1 flashlights. So I’ll take take these apart and just put the elements inside. You could use other things
like LED ferry lights and things like that if you wanted to. I just want this cause it’s
gonna be the brightest, which is what I’m after. To disassemble these, unscrew the end, remove the clear lens. I just poke it with a small
screwdriver and pry it out. And then push the LEDs
out from the inside. I double check that the
spring is the positive side. I remove and replace the
flashlight connections with Cat 5 wire. Just keep the colors
consistent for each part. I like to use solid for the positive. To stick the LEDs to the plastic, I use some double stick foam tape. And then solder the wires together. I place shrink tubing over all the exposed solders connections, because
I’ve had too many props get an electrical short
right when I need them and couldn’t fix them. I drilled a hold in the box because I wanna keep the power
source outside of the cube. What I’m using is called a unibit. This is actually really good
for drilling into acrylic. Wood drill bits are a little trickier because they’ll catch the
acrylic and cause a crack. And if you get a crack, it’s all over. You can’t stop it. Make sure my finger’s out of the way. Then if you use a little bit of heat, you can burn the edges of the hole and that’ll prevent any
micro cracks you can’t see from forming later. And I melted it. That’s okay. I could always just put the
batteries on the inside bottom. The cube will always
have to sit on something, my hand or the table. But I have future plans for this one. And I want the power to be external. But the illusion film does a decent job of distributing the light. One thing I might try is actually out some batting in here. Some of the Poly-fil
like what’s in stuffies. If I put that in here it
might diffuse the light a little better. So I’ll give that a shot. I put just a little bit
of fluff into the cube. The goal is to diffuse the light, not cram it full of stuff. The Poly-fil is translucent. What it’s gonna do is diffuse the light and help wrap it around
the sides of the LEDs and spread it out evenly on
all six sides of the cube. (techno music) And it diffuses the light a lot more and I can see from all sides. Now I still get a bit of a shadow from the one plastic wall. (groans) This may not be the best plan
but I thought it would work. But I’m getting a really
strong front and back, it’s okay on the top. It’s hiding the light better on the sides. Actually I’m a lot happier with that, it’s diffusing it a lot more. So what I wanna do is improve this. The tripe A batteries
will work, obviously, but I’m running two flashlights. I’m gonna swap this out
for C-cell batteries cause it’ll be a lot larger, they’ll probably last all day that way. Nice thing is triple A
batteries and C-cell batteries are the same voltage so I’m
not gonna overfeed the LEDs and kill them. So the reason I’m adding
this extra bit of wire is that the battery pack
holds four batteries but the LEDs only need three. If I plug in four, I run the
risk of overpower the LEDs and burning them out. So by putting in a jumper wire, I can put in three C-cells
and they’ll be happy. I add a J-connector between
the batteries and the lights with more shrink tube to
protect the solder points. Using a J-connector I
can add more wire later if I need the batteries
to be farther away. Now I didn’t put a power switch in here because the tesseract is a power source, right? If you’re gonna hold this thing, it’s gonna be glowing
all day anyway, right? So it doesn’t need to have
an on-off switch necessarily, just pull a battery out. And I was trying to keep it simple. So the idea here is now, especially as any long sleeve character you could run the wire up a sleeve, sit this in a pocket or a pouch or inside of your vest. And you’ve got a glowing tesseract which you can carry around all day. I’ve actually seen a few of these done and it looks really good when you do that. Now I didn’t glue this guy together and that was intentional. Because I have plans. The tesseract belongs in something. And I’m gonna be doing that to it next and that will be coming
out in a few weeks. But for now I’m gonna leave it unglued just in the baseball case, because this is how Odin Makes. (techno music) I wanna thank Eric Gordon, Darren Albright and all of my Patreon subscribers. You guys really do keep
this channel going. (techno music) If you like this channel,
don’t forget to subscribe. Do you have an idea for
something for me to make? Please, leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture. (techno music)


  1. Odin Makes Author

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  2. Ben Straw Author

    I would of done the powering of the tesseract a little different using Inductive charging, this would make it lighter and add a bit of a magic trick when at a con.

  3. Kenneth Neff Author

    Excellent work sir! You think you could make the Executioner majinis hammer sythe from resident evil 5? Thank you God bless your work is amazing!

  4. D2K Prime Author

    When I got the notification of this, I made sure that I got all my affairs taken care of for the day so that I can sit back, relax, watch and learn. :0)

  5. bernie davis Author

    I know I ask for this before but sense it's the 35th anniversary of Ghostbusters and Halloween is coming up, I still would like you to build a proton pack from the real Ghostbusters cartoon. The blue one. It will be nice to see how Odin makes a proton pack.

  6. PixlProps Author

    Very cool looking prop, and so simple in the end. Like it, might have to make one now 😛

    I got a tip, if you want a "permanent" power source, those lights (it was in mine anyway) run on 6 volts, so you can run them on a standard USB charger that puts out 5 volts. I tried this my self on an old flashlight that look just like yours, of cause be sure these voltages are correct before you try it. This way you can have it plugged into a wall socket, or if you want it more mobile, a power bank.

  7. CommanderWolf Hadley Author

    @Odin Makes, an idea for you, an acrylic straw , where the cord hole is and use one of those ball looking LEDs mainly used for garden lights, they use those LED strip light things, if you couldn't find that ball light (super tiny disco ball) the light would be brighter and almost 360° inside , just a thought .

  8. Michael Diaz Author

    if your wearing a glove you could put a small hole in the palm to run the wire up to the sleeve and have the cube velcroed to the palm so your hand doesn't cramp from holding it all day. you could also try a touch light switch. check out ABTabi channel searched for a dyi. love the lighting effect. awesome Love your work

  9. Sanskar Behera Author

    Hey! Odin I appreciate your work and bunch of stuffs you made. My request is that will u please make the other containers holding other infinity stones you know like the orb, Loki's sceptre, ether having reality stones I think u might have got my point. It's good to see u Odin to make things build.

  10. Aliens Guy 42 Author

    Alright you managed to somehow one up my rheoscopic liquid tesseract (that one uses water and mica powder inside the cube to give dynamic swirling when shaken)


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